Barcelona

Everything is relative. Ten years ago, coming from the north, Barcelona seemed a relaxed and bohemian big city. This time, after almost a month in Andalucia, it showed us its neurotic side. The neurosis of a beauty queen, though.

Patios

They leave a little window open in their gates, so we can peep and admire their gardens. Us the voyeurists, or them the exhibitionists?

“Qui no ha vi Grana no ha vi na'”

Granada’s history revolves around water. The melting snows of the Sierra Nevada, create a green oasis in the middle of what is otherwise a dry, barren and tough land. And over almost three centuries, the rulers of the Granada Emirate have turned this water into an art form, and their palace into a temple of hedonism. Too bad we can’t also post here the smells and sounds of the Generalife gardens.

Gibraltar

Hard to believe you’re at the Mediterranean when shops close at 6PM, dinner is fish and chips and the best entertainment is visiting tunnels and military installations. Built for war, Gibraltar is close to Costa del Sol, but far from its spirit. Thank God they kept the monkeys.

La Herradura

And here we crashed for two weeks…

Andalucia - on the road

Cordoba

A forest of 900 columns, red and white arches stretching as far as you can see, delicate filtered light falling on intricate mosaics. Built in the 10th century, the Cordoba Mesquita is considered one of the most beautiful mosques ever built. After the Reconquista, it was turned into a Catholic church, with the center demolished to make way for a cathedral.

Around the same time, at the other end of Europe, Hagia Sophia was having the reverse faith…

Flamenco

We were wary of a tourist-trap experience when it comes to flamenco in Sevilla. Every hotel advertises “true Andalusian experiences” but many can be overpriced, tourist-only shows, lacking in atmosphere and authenticity.
At 10.30 PM, there was almost no one inside Carboneria, a huge old coal deposit turned into flamenco bar, but we were told to come back in half an hour for the show. Somewhat skeptical, we left for dinner. When we came back, at 11.15, the whole place was packed. And for good reason.

From England to Sevilla

First thing we did arriving in Sevilla from Cambridge was a long and enjoyable shower – such a simple definition of pleasure. Separate faucets for cold and hot water in England and the impossibility to enjoy a shower as a result, seemed at the time to deserve some funny philosophical interpretation on the blog.

But that entry melted away into the warm Andalucian nights, tapas, sangria and flamenco. Salud!